THE HOME WINE COURSE ©
Introduction:
After reviewing the relatively obscure New World wines of Argentina and Chile we proceed with the most established place for premium wine production in the Americas, USA's Golden State, California. Here we find a multitude of excellent inland and coastal microclimates and soil types that have inspired vignerons from around the globe to try their hand at growing the famous vitis vinifera grapes that are responsible for the world's greatest wines. Californian wines come in almost every flavor, varietal, and style, which at first may seem a daunting array for the fledgling wine enthusiast. However once it is understood that California wines are all about ripe fruit which is easily approached an overall appreciation can begin to be known. These intensely flavorful wines beg to be opened soon and consumed at a very juicy tender age. If the maxim for French winemaking is "Less is more", then the California watchword would probably be "Bigger is better"! However, to be fair, there are several serious wine producers in California who are proponents of the more restrained Old World style whose wines are sought after by connoisseurs of this taste preference everywhere. In short, California has a wine to suit every palate at every price, from the highly commercialized $6.99 fighting varietal to the exceptionally rare $150+ vineyard-designated Private Reserves.
Levels of Quality
The regulatory agency for wines produced in the United States is called the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (BATF). Rulings regarding federally-recognized vineyard regions (American Viticultural Areas: AVAs) official wine label designations, and consumer health warnings are administered from the long arm of the law in far-away Washington, D.C. But, after determining such necessary mundanities as appropriate minimum grape-type percentage levels for varietal wines and what alcohol levels a table wine should have as opposed to a dessert wine, the BATF leaves winery owners to their own devices to determine how their wine's quality should be rated. There is no Premier Cru or Grand Cru official status for California wines (or any other U.S.-produced wines). Consequently a wide variety of wine competitions have sprung up all over California and indeed in the rest of the United States where these wines are judged and awarded medals of distinction in every wine category imaginable. Californian wines (along with wines from regions worldwide) also are scored by numerous wine writers according to the universally-accepted grade-school equivalent 100-point rating system. These judgings serve as a useful general guide to the wine's overall excellence (or lack thereof!). The unregulated abuse of terms such as Private Reserve, Special Select, or Proprietor's Reserve has damaged the credibility of this nomenclature on labels that truly deserve such designations. However the consumer can trust the terms: estate-bottled, single-vineyard, grown, produced and bottled by, and Meritage (indicating a Bordeaux-type blend) which are BATF-approved legal statements used by the winery to indicate their highest quality wine.
Grape Types
As we've already mentioned, Californian wines are quite diverse, not only in style but also regarding varietal choices. If California represents the melting pot that is the United States then the dizzying assortment of Californian wines should not be surprising. Whites of note include Chardonnnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chenin Blanc, Columbard, White Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Muscat Canelli, Muscat Alexandria and Viognier. Chardonnay is definitely the Number 1 white varietal throughout the state's vineyards with the buttery, toasty, tropical-styling most sought after by Californian wine enthusiasts. Sauvignon Blanc isn't as austere as French Sancerre and is sometimes softened further with Semillon and some time in oak. Rieslings and Gewurztraminers are normally finished heavier (more alcohol) and drier than German examples but considerably sweeter than the Alsatian preference. Chenin Blanc, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Grigio can emulate Chardonnay when aged in new wood but they normally retain their crisp citrusy tone overall. Viognier from California is usually intensely fruity and viscous with much less mineral structure than French versions. Muscat wines range from medium-dry to unctious, late-harvest dessert styles. The red wine category is no less interesting. Varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir, Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Mourvédre, Carignan, Grenache, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, and Barbera. The popular Bordeaux trio of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc are used individually and together to produce some of California's loftiest red wines (both in character and price). They are complex and powerful reds that will age well although they rarely get the chance. Pinot Noir is typically offered in a bright and effusively-fruity, Beaujolais-style but many Burgundian-rich examples have emerged as world-class contenders. Petite Sirah is dark in color but still quite soft normally although new oak can give these wines great focus. Syrah, Mourvédre, Grenache, and Carignan are often blended into easy-going, pleasantly herbal Californian Rhone-Ranger wines but Syrah and Mourvédre hold their own as single varietals. The most unique red of California is Zinfandel with its white pepper-spiced, raspberryish fruit that can be fashioned into wines ranging from semi-sweet blush versions to almost Port-like, blockbuster reds. The Cal-Ital family of Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, and Barbera are being tried by many vintners in California today with varying degrees of success. Unfortunately they are usually more expensive than their European cousins.
Regions of Production
The best vineyard regions in California are relatively close to the Pacific coastline, far enough from the shore to have enough warmth for full ripening, but not so far away that the morning fogs passing through gaps in Caifornia's coastal range can't provide some protection from afternoon growing season temperatures sometimes soaring to well over 100 degrees. From the south, California's most notable premium wine districts are Temecula (south of Riverside), Santa Barbara (north of the city), San Luis Obispo, San Benito, Santa Cruz, Santa Clara, Alameda, Monterey (all south of San Francisco), Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, and Lake County (all north of San Francisco). The vast varietal assortment of Californian viticulture is distributed throughout these vineyard areas allowing many local distinctions to be revealed through each area's version of the same varietal. Certain districts now have established reputations for excellence with particular varietals (ie. Napa Cabernet and Sonoma Russian River Chardonnay). Many of the localities within the districts listed above have gained official AVA appellation status including such favorite microclimates as Stag's Leap, Howell Mountain, and Carneros in Napa County, and Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley, and Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma.
Summary
We'll only be scratching the surface with this tasting of California's wines but it will be great fun nonetheless! With such a rich profusion of wines to choose from one could spend an entire lifetime exploring California wine. The biggest concern we have for California (besides high prices) is that there is a tendency within the industry to over-manipulate the wines to reflect commercial tastes. This too often lessens the natural qualities of the fruit which is naturally bountiful in California's Mediterranean climate and needs very little handling to give wonderfully rich wines of distinction. Our advice is to seek out small, quality-minded producers who have consistently proven success in bottling a little piece of the glorious sunshine from the Golden State!
Tasting Notes:
