THE HOME WINE COURSE ©



    PART   1   - FRANCE

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  Introduction:

We begin this around-the-world tour of wine with France not because vinegrowing and winemaking originated here but simply due to the influence this country has had on the modern world of wine. Not only have the French innovated time-honored winemaking techniques, but French viticulture has also contributed the vast majority of winegrape varietals utilized in  winemaking globally today. Almost every varietal we call by name, for example whites like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, and Viognier, or reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Syrah, have been developed in the vast vineyard haven that is France. In addition, the distinctive stylistic character of French wines, so influenced by traditional use of different strains of yeast, varying regional sources of oak (barrel fermentation and ageing), and the art and science of the cuveé (varietal blends) are copied the world over. These standards of quality and taste are a legacy of a thousand or more years of French winemaking expertise. So, our exploration of the wonderful world of wines begins here. Six primary regions have been selected to demonstrate the wines of France starting with the famous Bordeaux region.


(1)  Bordeaux
 

Bordeaux is located in the maritime southwestern quadrant of France, specifically situated on either side of the Garonne River where it becomes the Gironde River near its estuary with the Atlantic Ocean. Bordeaux is the largest appellation (fine wine district) in France, producing some 650 million bottles of red and white wine per year. The elegantly dry, tannin-rich reds are made primarily from a blend of richly-flavored, curranty Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes, although the lighter, more aromatic Cabernet Franc plays a significant role in many Bordeaux red wines (particularly in St. Emilion). Smaller amounts of the tobacco-scented Malbec and densely-mineral Petite Verdot varietals are also utilized for greater complexity. The flinty, dry white wines of Bordeaux are fashioned from a varying proportional blend of Semillon (melony, sometimes fig-flavored) and the high mineral toned, grapefruity Sauvignon Blanc, with a touch of the soft and aromatic Muscadelle added for good measure occasionally. A few excellent sweet, late-harvest whites (featuring the same varietals mentioned above) are produced in the subdistricts of Sauternes, Barsac, Loupiac, and Monbazillac, although red wines are the mainstay of Bordeaux in general. Bordeaux wines have been classified by the French government at three basic levels of quality (simplified here): regional Bordeaux (Appellation Bordeaux Controlée), Cru Bourgeois, and Grand Cru Classé (1st through 5th 'Growth'). The most notable subdistricts of Bordeaux include St. Estephe, Pauillac, St. Julien, Margaux, Pessac-Leognan (Graves), Pomerol, and St. Emilion.

                                                                       

Tasting Notes:

(2)  Burgundy
 

The ancient vineyards of Burgundy are located in the temperate eastern quadrant of France, beginning (in the northernmost district of Chablis) about a hundred miles southeast of Paris on a branch of the Yonne River, and continuing (after a substantial break in contiguous vineyard sites lasting several miles) just south of the town of Dijon to just northwest of Lyon. Burgundy, by comparison with Bordeaux, produces much less wine (about 300 million bottles yearly). The elegant, sometimes long-lived cherry/plum-flavored reds are made exclusively with the much revered, but finicky Pinot Noir grape (except in Beaujolais, the southernmost segment of Burgundy known for the effusively fruity (drink it young) red wine made from the more humble Gamay Noir varietal). The honeyed pear, apple, and citrus-flavored whites of Burgundy (oak aged and non-oak-aged) are made with the Chardonnay grape, with a tiny contribution being made by the rather austere Pinot Blanc and Aligoté (used in making the famous kir cocktail). The French Appellation Controlée laws regarding quality in Burgundy prescribe three basic classifications: (in ascending order of quality) regional Burgundy  (AOC Bourgogne, including many specific villages), Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. Famous vineyard names in Burgundy include: Chambertin, Musigny, Clos Vougeot, Romaneé-Conti, Corton-Charlemagne (white), Le Montrachet (white), and Pouilly-Fuissé (also white).

                                                               

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(3)  Cotes du Rhone
 

The Cotes du Rhone wine region is located in the southeastern quadrant of France, just south of the city of Lyon, following the southerly flow of the Rhone River to just south of the environs of the historic town of Avignon. The climate is temperate in the north to Mediterranean in the south. Much less wine is produced in the northern Cotes du Rhone as compared to the sunny southern districts where the largest regional appellation after Bordeaux is situated. The Cotes du Rhone is primarily red wine country, with a few whites, some rare and expensive, like the Condrieu wines made with the exotic, aromaticViognier grape. Complex, full-bodied reds are made with an amazing variety of grape types, including the anise-scented, peppery Syrah (the noble varietal of the northern Cotes du Rhone, exclusively used to make the small appellation wines of Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, and St. Joseph). The more humble Grenache, Mourvédre, Cinsault, and Carignan (with varying degrees of Syrah) are used to make the earthy/herbal berry-flavored reds of the south. The long-lived, minerally-dry whites of the Rhone are usually blends of the savory Marsanne and the fruity Roussanne, with some Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, and Clairette added occasionally. Excellent rosés are found in the Rhone as well, including a famous Grenache-based dry rosé made in the Rhone district of Tavel. Quality classifications in the Rhone are limited to Appellation Originé designations only, from high-caliber vineyard districts including Cote-Rotie, Hermitage, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and Chateauneuf-du-Pape as opposed to the larger districts of Cotes du Rhone, Cotes du Ventoux, and Cotes du Luberon. Estate-bottled, single vineyard wines are best, but can be quite pricey.

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(4)  Alsace
 

The Alsace region of France is found in the far northeastern quadrant of the country just west of the Rhine River and the border with Germany. The Vosges Mountains form the geographic western flank of this underappreciated wine region. Production here is much smaller than other French wine regions covered in this course, but the high quality of the wines compensates nicely. Bone-dry, non-oaked white wines are the mainstay here, with a few rather shallow Pinot Noir reds wines offered rarely. The whites are traditionally 100% varietal, although a few interesting blends are gaining popularity. Varietals include Riesling (Johannisberg), Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Sylvaner, Chasselas, and Muscat d'Alsace. Although many of these winegrapes reflect a Germanic heritage, the wines are fashioned in the distinctively austere French style with no grape juice added back in for sweetening as is common in German wines. Quality designators in Alsace are based on village appellations first followed by a few more recently designated Grand Cru vineyards that are now well established. Dry, late-harvest Vin de Garde wines can be found with the Vendange Tardive designation. Sweet, late-harvest Alsatian wines, rare and expensive, are called Selection des Grains Nobles.

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(5)  Loire Valley
 

The Loire Valley wine region is located in the central/western portion of France following the Loire River from the highlands of central France to where it drains into the Atlantic near the city of Nantes. This is a prolific wine-producing area accounting for approximately 12% of France's total wine production. Three white varietals dominate in the Loire Valley, with Sauvignon Blanc (quite austere, grapefruity, and a bit herbal) grown primarily in the eastern districts of Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire (upper Loire), Chenin Blanc (intense peachy citrus; usually finished demi-sec, although extremely dry in Savennieres) in the central districts of Touraine, Vouvray, and Anjou, and Muscadet (high mineral tone, racy, bone-dry green apple) grown throughout the western coastal area. A tiny bit of high-intensity, un-oaked Chardonnay is also found, usually relegated to blends however. Red and rosé wine production is quite limited by comparison, utilizing the mid-weight, distinctively herbal, red plum and cherry-flavored Cabernet Franc grape in the western districts, and the pleasantly tart pomegranate, cherry, and cranberry-tinged Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir varietals in the eastern half of the Loire. While AOC designations are the rule here, the best indicator of quality in the Loire region is the producer/negociant names of high reputation, including such operators as the Baron Ladoucette, Marc Bredif, and Chateau Moncontour.

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(6) Languedoc-Roussillon/Provence
 

The South of France includes the wine districts just north and west of the Riviera along the Mediterranean coast to the border with Spain. This is the region of France formerly known as the wine lake of Europe because so much cheap vin ordinaire was made here. Now the wines of Provence and the Languedoc-Roussillon (and neighboring districts) are gaining new respect due to quality-minded vignerons constantly upgrading their operations with new winemaking technology and premium varietal plantings that are well-pruned, limiting yields to less than 3 tons per acre. Red wines are foremost here, with most of the rustic Cotes du Rhone varietals represented, particularly Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre, and Carignane. These grapes are often blended successfully with the more elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot varietals. First-rate, affordable (excepting the wines of the Bandol district) dry rosés are also produced here, utilizing primarily Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvédre and Syrah. The majority of white wines here are similar to white Cotes du Rhone wines, with the wonderful exception of the low-priced,  surprisingly-rich Chardonnays and rather unctuous Viogniers produced under the vin de pays (country  wines) designation. In the Southwest, you'll find more Columbard and Gros Manseng based whites which tend to be somewhat simple and sharp but always refreshing wines typically. Look for estate-bottled wines for best quality. The top appellations within the Languedoc-Roussillon include Minervois, Corbieres, Fitou, St. Chinian, and Picpoul de Pinet. Provence appellations include the Cotes du Provence, Cassis, and Bandol.

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